There are a variety of ways to cook mushrooms. They can be sautéed, grilled, roasted, or poached. But regardless of the method, there’s one thing I like to emphasize and it’s moisture management.
When mushrooms are served too wet they are soft and slimy. Mushrooms are mostly water and they act like sponges. When they get rained on or you wash them, they become saturated. If you don’t remove some of that water before you eat them, they can take on the texture of a banana slug. Alternatively if they dry out too much, they can become like shoe leather. Solutions are simple: if they’re too dry, rinse or even soak them a bit. If they’re too wet and soft, store them in the refrigerator until they firm up again.
Sautéing is my go-to cooking method for most mushrooms: chanterelles, hedgehogs, morels, russulas, black trumpets, oysters, agaricus and more. The only mushrooms I don’t cook this way are boletes/porcini and amanitas, which need a lighter touch.
Step 1: Clean
If possible, avoid washing wild mushrooms. Remember they’re like sponges and you often want to reduce their water content, not increase it. Wild foods are organic, so there’s no chemicals to wash off. Inspect them for dirt and debris. Usually you can brush them clean, pick off any twigs/leaves, trim bad spots, or use a damp paper towel to rub away the dirt.
Sometimes washing is necessary and some mushrooms always need it. If mushrooms become very wet during washing, ideally you would let them dry in the refrigerator for a day or two before cooking.
Step 2: Dry Sauté
Dry sauté simply means sautéing without oil. Oil locks in water content and you want them to release water for the best texture.
Get your pan hot over medium-high heat and add a single layer of mushrooms. Don’t overcrowd the pan - you want them to sweat and boil off that water, but you don’t want them submerged in it. Stir only occasionally if needed to prevent them from sticking. When the liquid has all boiled off, they’re ready for oil.
Step 3: Caramelize
Add butter. Olive and other oils work too, but there’s just something about butter :) If you’re worried about burning the butter, adding a bit of oil at the same time allows you to cook them at higher heat. This is also where I add salt, garlic, onions, or herbs. Stir initially to coat the mushrooms, then try not to stir too often so they can caramelize. Be patient, it’s hard to overcook mushrooms. They’re done when lightly browned.
If I’m making a scramble, this is when I add the eggs. For mushroom sauces, this is when I add the cream or tomato sauce. Whatever you’re doing, try to reuse the pan to take advantage of the mushroomy goodness that’s stuck to the bottom.
